After so much time in forced isolation, the desire to be with friends is an obvious side effect. Party-goers longing for pre-pandemic freedom Dean and Dan Caten have imagined to park their cool band Dsquared2 gathering in after-party fashion, chilling into the wee hours of the morning. “It’s kind of a situation where I don’t care about the mood, whatever the mood,” Dan said on a date at the showroom. “The headframe is definitely not correct.”
As far as we know, being correct has never been a concern for the Catens, whose style is sassy, sexy, glittery and glamorous. The pandemic hasn’t dampened their muscular flamboyance, but the resort has an artistic, artful, and grungy quality rather different from the hustle and bustle of their typical collections. They seemed to revel in a sort of free-style house mix, where spray-painted graffiti, doodles, scribbles and tag-style camouflages were fused and layered with vintage upholstery florals, spongy tweeds, tie-dye, crochet, flocked and striped velvet and bleached denim.
There is always a method to the madness of the irrepressible Catens. What might have looked like complete visual chaos actually looked like something else. The collection had a degree of calculated spontaneity that testifies to the consummate composure of the designers. Cleverly put together, it reads like a virtuoso exercise in mismatched assemblies, the kind of totally believable DIY style for today’s post-pandemic wardrobes.
Canadiana inflected with military, streetwear and grunge was the clever mix offered for boys – think oversized camouflage outerwear, paper-grade tie-dye ripstop nylon jackets, graffiti-covered trench coats, sweatshirts labeled hood and hand painted bleached denim. The girls were “more feminine but tough,” as they put it, with heavy combat boots contrasting with soft prairie flowers, grimy spray-painted animal prints or vintage bias-cut dresses, and doodles and macrame inlays. Chains of wood beads were woven into miniskirts and tops and paired with striped poplin briefs for the cheek. Worn casually over a men’s white poplin shirt, a Swarovski crystal bralette brought an optimistic sparkle. Even at their most grumpy, the Caten twins can’t do without a little bling.