Thousands of cellphones are thrown through the air as the opening din of Rosalía’s “Saoko” begins. The stage is bare but the zillions of fans know that soon the lights will flash and there will be Rosalía, in the opening moment of the first night of her 2022 world tour which will take her from her native Spain across Europe and to North and South America. When she finally appears, in a flash of light and cheers, she’s wearing a Dion Lee cobalt knit top and a low-rise miniskirt that’s positively mini, the better to show off her Dion Lee boots.
A few weeks earlier, in Paris, Lee was scrolling through dozens of sketches he had made for Rosalía and all her dancers. He will be the musician’s exclusive costume designer for the next four months of her tour, making every belt, every motorcycle jacket and every flamenco-inspired dress. He doesn’t seem tired, but rather inspired to see his designs come to life on a star of Rosalía’s stature.
This partnership suits him. His wife is truly the Rosalía type – aggressive, tough and incredibly sexy. Her resort 2023 collection, designed in tandem with Rosalía’s looks, is full of rugged, warm clothes with a certain motocross edge. The monstera leaf top from her Spring 2021 collection has been relaunched as a padded black leather minidress that almost looks like tire tread. Shoulder pads and knee pads give sun-bleached sweats a sporty feel, while the deconstructed corset is tighter than ever, but somehow, in our weird intra-pandemic world, it feels all at do good.
Maybe it’s that after all the hubbub about dressing up or dressing up, hardcore sharpness is the vibe for this moment. Precision and fluidity may be at odds, but here Lee finds a groove that works. Catch it on tour this fall or in wardrobes this resort season.